Fashion, News, Runway Review

#NYFW Fall ’16: Alexander Wang Redefines “Beauty and Taste”

February 14, 2016

The only thing that says f*** the fashion establishment better than sex worker chic, is sex worker chic done through fabrics, separates, and styling that are the status symbols of said establishment. This was the Fall 2016 show of Alexander Wang, unarguably himself part of the fashion establishment, after a meteoric rise from his eponymous label to the head of legendary French house Balenciaga, and back. And so it was fitting that in his first show since leaving his Parisian perch, that Wang would give a collection that remixes those establishment symbols with his own signatures – especially that hardware – to make a clear statement that there was life before and after Balenciaga for him, and that fashion and style has a life that is bigger than the establishment and its symbols.

With this intention, Wang’s collection outfits a couture street fight in which the models looks prepare them for battle with the establishment: studded boots to kick its ass, stockings already ruined with labels emblazoned on them so one doesn’t have to worry about the running while they “fight the power.” Wang did struck me as the kind of thing Hedi Slimane has attempted to do at Yves Saint Laurent since he took over that house, much to the chagrin of many fashion critics, though the YSL customer seems to love it as Slimane’s work brings in lots of coins. Somehow, however, Wang’s approach went down a bit easier than Slimane’s grunge girls and Hollywood pilgrim looks at Saint Laurent. Maybe this supports the overall takeaway from Wang’s Fall 2016 collection: the taste and beauty standards of the industry that the establishment desires is no sustenance for the 21st century fashionista who insists on being and dressing free.

Here are three of my favorite looks from Alexander Wang Fall 2016:

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-edp

Glamourtunist

#NYFW Fall ’16: Cushnie et Ochs

February 13, 2016

by Dominique M. Davis

After seeing the Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs’s pre fall 2016 collection I was ready to be wowed by a ready-to-wear line inspired by culture of a reinvented sari, instead I was given couture cocktail, vibrant vixen, and sultry slayed from the fall 2016 collection. They went in a totally different direction, and it too wowed me just like their pre-Fall.

Lace, silk, fur and a fabric I could not quite discern gave the collection a cohesive after five, cocktail glam aesthetic. Traditional colors of elegance turned basic black, silver, ivory, red and gold into a collection of Avant-garde yet regal pieces into a cohesive line of grace and style.

Here are a few of my favorite looks for the Fall 2016 collection:

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Fashion, News, Runway Review

#NYFW16: Tadashi Shoji

February 13, 2016

by Dominique M. Davis

Ready-to-wear inspired by glorious tribal aesthetics, need I say more? Tadashi Shoji’s collection for Fall used triangular and geometric shapes to give way to the silhouette. The use of triangles throughout the collection added an intricate detail to each piece whether it was a part of the design pattern, placed strategically at the waistline to cinch the waist and added the appearance of an hourglass figure and/or used to accentuate the neckline; the use of shapes in this collection was well hewn. A scalloped neck and hemline with floral lace patterns added a creative and whimsical dimension to the structured and controlled design of the geometric clad collection.

Basic colors of ivory, black, pale gold, copper and violet with the use of velvet, lace, chiffon and embroidered sheer fabric brought tribal beautification to 21st century couture. Tadashi definitely slayed this collection and had the models giving me Vogue. Madonna was playing in my mind every time another garment graced the platform.

Here are my favorite pieces:

 

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Fashion, News, Runway Review

#NYFW16: Dion Lee’s “Boyfriend Jacket Dress” and Other Obsessions

February 13, 2016

The overall feel I got from the Dion Lee collection for Fall 2016 New York Fashion Week is edgy sophistication in all of its interdependence. The best example of it is this look I am calling the “boyfriend jacket dress.”

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The cut, the color, the length of it, and the styling with these boots all merges edge and sophistication into one and requires the perfect measures of each to do so effective.

The same is true of this jacket and trousers ensemble. I am loving all the flounce in suits I am seeing on the runway this season.

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And also the volume in outerwear, such as this for which I AM LIVING.

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Finally, I am on a mission to signal the best and most original looking’s takes on the “Little Black Dress” this season. I call it my Andre Leon Talley challenge following his wonderful exhibit and book about LBDS. Here is a Dion Lee dress I think aces the test!

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-edp

 

 

 

 

Fashion, News, Runway Review

#NYFW16: KLS by Kimora Lee Simmons

February 13, 2016

It’s New York Fashion Week, folks. One of our early faves has been the latest collection from entrepreneur, model, and fashion designer, Kimora Lee Simmons. I am OBSESSED with this LBD (Little Black Dress) from the collection. I like it for work AND play. You can leave the office and go right to happy hour in this one.

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And if and LBD is a little to simple for your taste, this frock gives the same effortless chic of an LBD but does so with a color that goes both conservative but still fun, and of course the shoulder cutouts!

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I also like the cut of suit jackets and pants by Kimora Lee Simmons. This one gave me a modern Yves Saint Laurent “Le Smoking” moment …

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And then there was her elegant outwear. It looks gorgeous!

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– edp

Beauty, Fashion

About Town: Chicago Creatives & Entrepreneurs

February 9, 2016

Here is the first “About Town,” where we will feature fashion and beauty businesses in specific cities and neighborhoods you might check out. This post, written by contributing writer Dominique M. Davis, covers up and coming designers, chefs, entrepreneurs and a variety of creatives in the Chicago Land Area. While we are excited to share information about each of these businesses and some of their products, we are not endorsing any specific company or product listed here. Rather, we are sharing the wealth of businesses from which to choose from, and especially featuring Chicago women entrepreneurs and creatives in this post.

8TY4 Vintage 

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Margarita (pictured above) is the owner of 8ty4 Vintage. A master thrifter and lover of all things vintage, she has hosted vintage trunk shows and pop-up shops in Chicago and Atlanta. Her most recent vintage pop-up, a collaboration with Cuzvins, a duo comprises of herself and her cousin Ayesha Jaco who is the owner of Shelly Jean’s  Vintage, took place in early February at the  the Bronzeville Visitor’s Center. Her mission is to help people to understand that vintage items are all about being classic, fun, and unique, not just clothes from previous decades.

Margarita also recently joined Femme Creatives, a group of like-minded individuals that aspire and inspire to create through various medias and mediums.  This collective collaboration is intended to uplift, nurture and facilitate progression amongst its members and affiliates through the love of vintage and networking.

Get Dosed!

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Dose Market has become a staple in a few markets throughout the United States. As a Chicago native I’m biased so I’ll add “most notably Chicago!” Dose Market is described as a “marketplace devoted to showcasing the finest designers, chefs, makers, bakers, entrepreneurs and artists. Since 2011, to the delight of shoppers in Chicagoland and beyond, Dose has worked tirelessly to discover and develop a community, thousands strong, dedicated to excellence and delight. Celebrating the food, fashion and art of those committed to these passionate pursuits.” It takes a lot of courage and support to pursue your dreams to actualize purpose, and their work on something that brings them such passion is admirable. Some of the vendors featured in the “HoliDOSE Days” at the SOHO House ( West Loop at 113 N. Green Street in Chicago, Il) included Susie Lee of Echo Vie Products. echo vie products are 100% natural and do not contain parabens, petrochemicals, or synthetic coloring.  Each product is hand made and poured in small batches in order to assure the highest quality and peak freshness.  Currently there are two items in the echo vie skincare line:  the All Natural Lip Balm and the Organic Body Oil. You can find more of their products at www.echovie.com or follow them on instagram @echoviebysusie.

Argaman & Defiance

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Entrepreneur Lydia Crespo of Argaman & Defiance (A&D) creates 100% silk scarves naturally dyed by hand in our studio located in Chicago, Illinois. We only use natural dye extracts responsibly collected from tree bark, roots, and leaves. The hand dyed process is an artfully crafted skill, making each piece uniquely beautiful. A skillfully talented young lady who has developed a craft of art making through textiles. You can find out more about her products at argamandefiance.com or follow her on instagram @argamandefiance.

Bon Macaron Chicago

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Another entrepreneur featured at “HoliDOSE” is Founder/Chef, Catherine Cooper. Cooper began Bon Macaron in 2013 out of a shared kitchen called Kitchen Chicago. In June 2104, Bon Macaron was the first macaron specialty boutique to open in Illinois and provides Chicago’s premium quality macaron in over 25 signature flavors. You can find out more about her products at www.bonmacaronchicago.com or instagram @bonmacaronchicago.

If you are an entrepreneur or creative in/around Chicago, Central Illinois, Indianapolis, or St. Louis and want to be featured please email editor.glamourtunist@gmail.com.

– dmd

Fashion, News, Runway Review

Givenchy: Couture, Spring 2016

January 29, 2016

Riccardo Tisci has never truly disappointed me, but I do have my gripes about the latest haute couture presentation for the legendary fashion house. The first is that it is so few looks, and the second is that the connecting threads were so bare that it was difficult to discern the complete story. I understand that the way couture functions here is as a gesture of things we will likely see come full bloom in the upcoming ready-to-wear shows, but I still wanted just a bit more. That said, the garments are all beautiful and expertly crafted, as always. Here are the three that most slayed, and had me hollerin’ “Yaaaassss! WERRRRRK!”:

 

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– edp

Fashion, News, Runway Review

Yiqing Yin: Couture, Spring 2016

January 29, 2016

Chinese designer Yiqing Yin, a favorite among the haute couture set, presented her first collection as a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, this season. And the collection certainly showed us why. I can see each of the following three looks being worn on the red carpet. They certain should inspire a truly stylish celeb to venture away from the usual red carpet fare, and go with a name we don’t here often enough during awards season:

 

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-edp

Fashion, News, Runway Review

Ronald van der Kemp: Couture, Spring 2016

January 29, 2016

The look book of Amsterdam-based designer Ronald van der Kemp has been among my favorite presentations thus far during Spring 2016 haute couture week. Here are three of my faves from a spectacular collection.

The strength of this presentation was especially in the superb styling of many of the looks, like this sleek and sophisticated jumper:

 

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The placement of the gold buttons on this skirt are perfect. I live!

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The picture below is of the back of a gown. The front was fantastic, but the back of it was absolutely ravishing!

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-edp

Editor's Aesthetics, Fashion, Glamourtunist, WERK!

Capes, Clutches and Consignment: The Editor’s Closet

January 25, 2016

Almost two years ago, rapper and Harlemite Cam’ron walked the runway of a Mark McNairy fashion show wearing a gray suit, a camo fitted cap, and a fur lined tweed cape, and folks thought he had lost his mind. But he looked so damn fly anyway. This past September, actor turned Central St. Martin’s fashion design student Antonio Banderas, announced his intention to start a menswear line and to experiment with making the cape a steady thing in menswear. For many men the cape as accessory has already been a thing, but this Fall capes seem to be everywhere on runways and of course on the streets. And I am all the way here for it!

As a stylist, I am so much more daring in what I put in other people’s closets than what I am willing to risk putting in my own. These are my confessions. Forgive me Diana Vreeland, for I have sinned! And I totally just wrote that line just to show you a high-fashion, Yves Saint Laurent nun.

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From Stefano Pilati’s Fall 2010 YSL Collection.

You’re welcome. Seriously though, I think what is true for me is true for many stylists and some fashion designers too: we are so busy pushing fashion for everyone else, we run out of gas and so we find our fierce thing we do and just keep doing it. And that’s ok, we still kill it. Michael Kors, for example, has said he started wearing his all Black jacket, shirt, pant, shoe, and aviator ensembles because he was so focused on thinking about what everyone else should be wearing he wanted to deliver himself from the pressure of having to always go through his closet to make a fierce look for himself Every. Damn Day. And what could be more instant chic and elegant than all Black everything? Uh, nothing. Here are the receipts:

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Michael Kors in his signature all Black ensemble.

You better WERK, Michael Kors! I totally feel the same way, and so people for whom I have shopped with/for or styled have reaped the benefits of my creativity in style way more than I have at times. One of the things I had been putting people onto for EVER were capes, on capes, on capes. I had been obsessed with capes in womenswear first, but didn’t really lose my mind about it until I saw it in evening wear when Gwyneth Paltrow and then Lupita Nyong’o slayed our entire Universe wearing a Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren gown with capes on awards season red carpets in 2012 and 2014, respectively.

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Lupita and Gwyneth: The Cape Has Arisen

I never really saw wearing capes as being a thing for myself. Then this Christmas my bae bought me a gorgeous, black and white geometric print cape. And as someone who has a very defined sense of what I do and do not wear, I freaked the hell out. I loved it at first sight, but was like “ummm, not happening” and figured it would look gorgeous in my closet or to loan to someone else. But in her new book (which I am now reading) Shonda Rhimes says it’s our “Year of Yes” or as I call 2016, my “Year of Yaaassszzz” so I questioned why my fear was on autopilot with my fashion at the moment, and decided to at least try it on. And I did. And then I twirled, and twirled some more. And then I was born again.

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And now all I do is go online in search of capes. The last time this happened I began buying all the caftans, not even to wear outside, but just to sit at my desk and wear when I write. Ya’ll pray for my finances, because the devil is all in my pocketbook!

Further making capes a thing for me has been I love them with clutches, which now means I spend my weekends also buying up all the clutches. My favorite place to do this is consignment stores. On one recent shopping trip I purchased these three clutches for about $40:

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My consignment clutches. Which one do you like the most? Mine is the green.

I paired the green clutch with the cape I got for Christmas and wore it just last week. I have upcoming fashion plans for the other two, both with a cape of course.I also found this lovely clutch at a boutique in my neighborhood, and am thinking of how to rock it. Something tells me it’ll be worn with a cape too. This is becoming a problem, folks.

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Is there an item in your closet or something you considered too out your fashion wheelhouse to give it a shot? Tweet me, Facebook me, or leave a comment and let me know what that item is and let’s chat about how you can make it work in 2016. I mean, if I am twirling around town wearing a cape and a clutch bag, anything can happen.

– edp