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Fashion, News, Runway Review

#NYFW: Derek Lam is Totally My Valentine and…

February 14, 2016

… YES, I confess that I am totally just saying that because I want one of these gorgeous coats he showed in his Fall 2016 collection for New York Fashion Week, I already got a man. As for those extraordinary coats, here are the receipts:

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On the strength of these looks alone Lam’s show was, by far, among my favorite of today (being edged out just a teeny, weeny bit by Public School because their clothes make me think a lot and I’m a fashion nerd).  But to top off these already phenomenal looks, he also gave us this, and this, and that!:

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Slayed. Annnnnd, scene.

 

-edp

Fashion, News, Runway Review

#NYFW Fall ’16: Public School Resists Fashion’s Gender Gazing Problem

February 14, 2016

Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School have a lot on there plate these days. In addition to designing for the label they have successfully built into a must-see, award winning fashion and style brand, the two also now occupy the helm of the legendary DKNY. In a time when many are lamenting the death of creativity in fashion as a result of designer’s being tasked with too much to do, these two clearly still have steam as we saw in their recent Fall 2016 Menswear collection that slayed the runway, and now their Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection for NYFW.

What I love about Public School is that, even when fashion sticks to basic notions of gender identity and expression in terms of clothes, and the fashion house does play by those old rules in terms of having a separate menswear and womenswear show (which, to be fair, is actually somewhat recent for their company), the fashion house and the clothes they produce do emerge from an aesthetic that is agender. The payoff of this, besides the obvious gender radicalness of it all, is that they can play with color and texture in their garments, but above all with silhouette’s as the form and function of their designs don’t appear to constrain on the basis of rigid rules of gender identity and expression we find in most mainstream fashion houses and others operating at the top levels as Public School. For this show we see large ponchos, oversized trousers and jeans, and layers that work to conceal rather than convey particular attention to any of the markers much of fashion draws the eye to in an effort to distinguish those features that denote men’s clothes and women’s clothes and rigid notions of what femininity and masculinity are and could be in and through fashion and style. In sum, I appreciate the cerebral nature of what Public School does each season and this collection keeps that going.

Here are some of my favorites from the Fall 2016 ready-to-wear line:

 

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-edp

Fashion, News, Runway Review

#NYFW: Christian Siriano Made us a Believer in Yellow.

February 14, 2016

I’ve said it before, and I’ve said it again. Christian Siriano is one of the best in the evening wear game. The risks he takes with fabrics for evening, his use of color, his imagination that what one could wear for evening could be something more than just a gown but something more edgy and fun are among his strengths and what make his collections one to watch for me.

For Fall 2016, I am most transformed by his use of yellow. Yellow has never been a color I love, but in both his Spring 2016 collection and this latest Fall show, Siriano used yellow in ways that have made be a believer in this “Big Bird” couture. And I mean that in a REALLY< REALLY good way. The yellow wasn’t all the same, some verged on a more pale side, others vibrant, and at least one leaned very chartreuse. All of them, in my eyes, were by far my favorites from the collection and are among my favorite for NYFW so far, and I don’t know what to make of that as yellow usually calls up my shade button. Here are my favorites from among them:

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I also enjoyed what Siriano did with so much knitwear for evening, and some that could also work for day. In addition to the yellow knit pieces above, there was other that really caught my eye:

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Staying true to his strength and signature, Christian Siriano’s gave us so many dresses that gave so much life. Among my favorites and most “RCR” (red carpet ready) were these:

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Fashion, News, Runway Review

#NYFW Fall ’16: Alexander Wang Redefines “Beauty and Taste”

February 14, 2016

The only thing that says f*** the fashion establishment better than sex worker chic, is sex worker chic done through fabrics, separates, and styling that are the status symbols of said establishment. This was the Fall 2016 show of Alexander Wang, unarguably himself part of the fashion establishment, after a meteoric rise from his eponymous label to the head of legendary French house Balenciaga, and back. And so it was fitting that in his first show since leaving his Parisian perch, that Wang would give a collection that remixes those establishment symbols with his own signatures – especially that hardware – to make a clear statement that there was life before and after Balenciaga for him, and that fashion and style has a life that is bigger than the establishment and its symbols.

With this intention, Wang’s collection outfits a couture street fight in which the models looks prepare them for battle with the establishment: studded boots to kick its ass, stockings already ruined with labels emblazoned on them so one doesn’t have to worry about the running while they “fight the power.” Wang did struck me as the kind of thing Hedi Slimane has attempted to do at Yves Saint Laurent since he took over that house, much to the chagrin of many fashion critics, though the YSL customer seems to love it as Slimane’s work brings in lots of coins. Somehow, however, Wang’s approach went down a bit easier than Slimane’s grunge girls and Hollywood pilgrim looks at Saint Laurent. Maybe this supports the overall takeaway from Wang’s Fall 2016 collection: the taste and beauty standards of the industry that the establishment desires is no sustenance for the 21st century fashionista who insists on being and dressing free.

Here are three of my favorite looks from Alexander Wang Fall 2016:

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-edp

Fashion, News, Runway Review

#NYFW16: Tadashi Shoji

February 13, 2016

by Dominique M. Davis

Ready-to-wear inspired by glorious tribal aesthetics, need I say more? Tadashi Shoji’s collection for Fall used triangular and geometric shapes to give way to the silhouette. The use of triangles throughout the collection added an intricate detail to each piece whether it was a part of the design pattern, placed strategically at the waistline to cinch the waist and added the appearance of an hourglass figure and/or used to accentuate the neckline; the use of shapes in this collection was well hewn. A scalloped neck and hemline with floral lace patterns added a creative and whimsical dimension to the structured and controlled design of the geometric clad collection.

Basic colors of ivory, black, pale gold, copper and violet with the use of velvet, lace, chiffon and embroidered sheer fabric brought tribal beautification to 21st century couture. Tadashi definitely slayed this collection and had the models giving me Vogue. Madonna was playing in my mind every time another garment graced the platform.

Here are my favorite pieces:

 

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Fashion, News, Runway Review

#NYFW16: Dion Lee’s “Boyfriend Jacket Dress” and Other Obsessions

February 13, 2016

The overall feel I got from the Dion Lee collection for Fall 2016 New York Fashion Week is edgy sophistication in all of its interdependence. The best example of it is this look I am calling the “boyfriend jacket dress.”

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The cut, the color, the length of it, and the styling with these boots all merges edge and sophistication into one and requires the perfect measures of each to do so effective.

The same is true of this jacket and trousers ensemble. I am loving all the flounce in suits I am seeing on the runway this season.

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And also the volume in outerwear, such as this for which I AM LIVING.

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Finally, I am on a mission to signal the best and most original looking’s takes on the “Little Black Dress” this season. I call it my Andre Leon Talley challenge following his wonderful exhibit and book about LBDS. Here is a Dion Lee dress I think aces the test!

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-edp

 

 

 

 

Fashion, News, Runway Review

#NYFW16: KLS by Kimora Lee Simmons

February 13, 2016

It’s New York Fashion Week, folks. One of our early faves has been the latest collection from entrepreneur, model, and fashion designer, Kimora Lee Simmons. I am OBSESSED with this LBD (Little Black Dress) from the collection. I like it for work AND play. You can leave the office and go right to happy hour in this one.

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And if and LBD is a little to simple for your taste, this frock gives the same effortless chic of an LBD but does so with a color that goes both conservative but still fun, and of course the shoulder cutouts!

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I also like the cut of suit jackets and pants by Kimora Lee Simmons. This one gave me a modern Yves Saint Laurent “Le Smoking” moment …

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And then there was her elegant outwear. It looks gorgeous!

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– edp

Beauty, Fashion

About Town: Chicago Creatives & Entrepreneurs

February 9, 2016

Here is the first “About Town,” where we will feature fashion and beauty businesses in specific cities and neighborhoods you might check out. This post, written by contributing writer Dominique M. Davis, covers up and coming designers, chefs, entrepreneurs and a variety of creatives in the Chicago Land Area. While we are excited to share information about each of these businesses and some of their products, we are not endorsing any specific company or product listed here. Rather, we are sharing the wealth of businesses from which to choose from, and especially featuring Chicago women entrepreneurs and creatives in this post.

8TY4 Vintage 

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Margarita (pictured above) is the owner of 8ty4 Vintage. A master thrifter and lover of all things vintage, she has hosted vintage trunk shows and pop-up shops in Chicago and Atlanta. Her most recent vintage pop-up, a collaboration with Cuzvins, a duo comprises of herself and her cousin Ayesha Jaco who is the owner of Shelly Jean’s  Vintage, took place in early February at the  the Bronzeville Visitor’s Center. Her mission is to help people to understand that vintage items are all about being classic, fun, and unique, not just clothes from previous decades.

Margarita also recently joined Femme Creatives, a group of like-minded individuals that aspire and inspire to create through various medias and mediums.  This collective collaboration is intended to uplift, nurture and facilitate progression amongst its members and affiliates through the love of vintage and networking.

Get Dosed!

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Dose Market has become a staple in a few markets throughout the United States. As a Chicago native I’m biased so I’ll add “most notably Chicago!” Dose Market is described as a “marketplace devoted to showcasing the finest designers, chefs, makers, bakers, entrepreneurs and artists. Since 2011, to the delight of shoppers in Chicagoland and beyond, Dose has worked tirelessly to discover and develop a community, thousands strong, dedicated to excellence and delight. Celebrating the food, fashion and art of those committed to these passionate pursuits.” It takes a lot of courage and support to pursue your dreams to actualize purpose, and their work on something that brings them such passion is admirable. Some of the vendors featured in the “HoliDOSE Days” at the SOHO House ( West Loop at 113 N. Green Street in Chicago, Il) included Susie Lee of Echo Vie Products. echo vie products are 100% natural and do not contain parabens, petrochemicals, or synthetic coloring.  Each product is hand made and poured in small batches in order to assure the highest quality and peak freshness.  Currently there are two items in the echo vie skincare line:  the All Natural Lip Balm and the Organic Body Oil. You can find more of their products at www.echovie.com or follow them on instagram @echoviebysusie.

Argaman & Defiance

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Entrepreneur Lydia Crespo of Argaman & Defiance (A&D) creates 100% silk scarves naturally dyed by hand in our studio located in Chicago, Illinois. We only use natural dye extracts responsibly collected from tree bark, roots, and leaves. The hand dyed process is an artfully crafted skill, making each piece uniquely beautiful. A skillfully talented young lady who has developed a craft of art making through textiles. You can find out more about her products at argamandefiance.com or follow her on instagram @argamandefiance.

Bon Macaron Chicago

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Another entrepreneur featured at “HoliDOSE” is Founder/Chef, Catherine Cooper. Cooper began Bon Macaron in 2013 out of a shared kitchen called Kitchen Chicago. In June 2104, Bon Macaron was the first macaron specialty boutique to open in Illinois and provides Chicago’s premium quality macaron in over 25 signature flavors. You can find out more about her products at www.bonmacaronchicago.com or instagram @bonmacaronchicago.

If you are an entrepreneur or creative in/around Chicago, Central Illinois, Indianapolis, or St. Louis and want to be featured please email editor.glamourtunist@gmail.com.

– dmd

Fashion, News, Runway Review

Givenchy: Couture, Spring 2016

January 29, 2016

Riccardo Tisci has never truly disappointed me, but I do have my gripes about the latest haute couture presentation for the legendary fashion house. The first is that it is so few looks, and the second is that the connecting threads were so bare that it was difficult to discern the complete story. I understand that the way couture functions here is as a gesture of things we will likely see come full bloom in the upcoming ready-to-wear shows, but I still wanted just a bit more. That said, the garments are all beautiful and expertly crafted, as always. Here are the three that most slayed, and had me hollerin’ “Yaaaassss! WERRRRRK!”:

 

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– edp

Fashion, News, Runway Review

Yiqing Yin: Couture, Spring 2016

January 29, 2016

Chinese designer Yiqing Yin, a favorite among the haute couture set, presented her first collection as a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, this season. And the collection certainly showed us why. I can see each of the following three looks being worn on the red carpet. They certain should inspire a truly stylish celeb to venture away from the usual red carpet fare, and go with a name we don’t here often enough during awards season:

 

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-edp